Perhaps because its acquisition formula has run out of steam.
Despite assembling an impressive collection of midpriced
brands like Anne Klein, Jones New York and Nine West, industry
executives and analysts say that Jones Apparel has stumbled in
its efforts to satisfy its investors' demand for growth.
Sales
of several Jones clothing lines, including Evan-Picone and
Jones New York Signature, have slipped.
Jones
gave up a lucrative deal to sell
Ralph Lauren apparel after a legal dispute.
And
the company has failed to find a trendy brand that connects
with young shoppers — as its rival Liz Claiborne did with
Juicy Couture.
These
troubles may explain, in part, why the company announced
yesterday that it had retained
Goldman Sachs to explore a possible sale, a development
with implications for Seventh Avenue designers and the dozens
of retailers that stock its clothing.
Analysts suggested that several clothing companies that may
covet one or more Jones brand would be logical buyers, among
them the
VF Corporation, maker of Wrangler and Lee jeans, and even
the relatively small
Oxford Industries, owner of Tommy Bahama.
But
many industry executives expect the Jones labels to end up in
the hands of private equity groups, which have been eager
buyers of value-driven companies in recent years and are flush
with cash.
Gilbert W. Harrison, chairman of Financo, a New York
investment bank that specializes in retail, said one possible
outcome was that a consortium of private equity groups or
another apparel company would split the company into three
parts — apparel, footwear and Barneys — that could be operated
or sold individually.
Investors certainly think Jones will have no trouble
attracting buyer interest. On the
New York Stock Exchange, shares of Jones, which is based
in Bristol, Pa., closed at $34.84 yesterday, up $4.02.
Private equity groups have grown fond of clothing makers and
retailers, snatching up
Neiman Marcus and Toys "R" Us in the last year.
Saks
Fifth Avenue and the arts and crafts chain Michael's are also
grooming themselves for possible sale.
"There is an awful lot of capital out there for financial
buyers to acquire these types of companies," said Michael
Appel, a partner at Quest Turnaround Advisors, a turnaround
management and advisory firm that specializes in retail.
Arnold H. Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at
the consulting firm Kurt Salmon Associates, agreed, arguing
that with sales topping $5 billion, Jones Apparel was "a very
expensive bite" for a company like Liz Claiborne or Ralph
Lauren.
Under
the leadership of Peter Boneparth, 46, a former investment
banker who was appointed chief executive in 2002, Jones
Apparel has become a leader in the midpriced clothing market.
The
company was founded in 1970 by Sidney Kimmel, its chairman,
with the goal of imitating the look of high-priced designers
without the high prices.
Its
products range from $25 Jones New York belts sold at Macy's to
$395 Bridget Shuster sandals available at Nordstrom.
Mr.
Boneparth has earned a reputation for take-no-prisoners
maneuvers. In 2003, he sued
Polo Ralph Lauren over a license to sell dresses, blouses
and skirts under the Lauren name, a dispute that ended with
Jones abandoning the brand and creating a new one in its
place.
In
2004, Mr. Boneparth stunned retailers and designers with his
$400 million purchase of Barneys, the luxury clothing retailer
with a flagship store on Madison Avenue in the heart of the
Upper East Side.
The
aggressive moves impressed Wall Street, but analysts say they
have not solved deeper problems at the company.
The
merger last year of
Federated Department Stores and
May Department Stores, Jones's two biggest retail clients,
threatens to cut into the company's sales. Federated accounts
for 19 percent of the total Jones Apparel revenue, a high
level of exposure should the department store cut back on
orders.
Several Jones clothing lines are already struggling. From 2004
to 2005, revenue from Jones's better-apparel line, which
includes Kasper Suit and Jones New York Signature, fell 3.7
percent; sales of its moderate clothing lines, including
Gloria Vanderbilt and Bandolino, fell 3.8 percent. Footwear
and accessory lines, including Nine West and Easy Spirit,
slipped 2.4 percent.
One
bright spot, however, was retail sales, which grew 71 percent,
lifted by the purchase of Barneys New York.
Total
revenue for Jones Apparel rose 9 percent last year.
Net
income for the company declined in both 2004 and 2o05, ending
last year at $274.3 million.
A
company executive did not return a phone call yesterday.